Stories of the Sea
38 weeks pregnant, still surfing daily - The inspiring story of local surfer and gynaecologist Renata Elizalde
I met Renata at my local surf spot in the South of France a few weeks ago. I saw this beautiful lady out there, ripping on a shortboard… with the biggest pregnant belly I have ever seen in the surf!!!
I was instantly fascinated by her character and her story. Without even knowing her I was ‘yewing’ at every wave she would catch on her shortboard, ripping the face of the wave and spraying water at every roller she’d do… with her (really) big mama belly.
I was amazed and felt compelled to know more about her story.
What’s your name and how old are you?
Catalina Renata Elizalde Martinez-Peñuela – yes, they love the long names in Spain! - everyone calls me Renata; I’m 29 years old, turning 30 in a few weeks.
Where are you from and where do you live?
I’m from Pamplona in the North of Spain, it’s part of the Basque region, I live there but I have been coming here to our family holiday house in St Jean de Luz every summer since I was 3-years-old.
What do you do for living?
I’m a gynecologist at the 'Hospital of Navarra' in Pamplona.
How did you start surfing and how long have you been surfing for?
I started surfing when I was about 10 because my older brother started surfing and I always wanted to do what my older brother did. A friend gave me a board at the time and that’s how I started.
Did you surf during your whole pregnancy? How often?
Yes I did! The whole time, every time there were waves.
Every time I’d walk out of our holiday house my mum would tell me “don’t risk it”. She kept trying to reason with me.
Did you ever feel like you should stop?
No, because nothing ever happened to me. I was never frightened while surfing so I kept on doing it. Gynecologists recommend swimming towards the end of your pregnancy to keep the blood circulating in the ankles. I guess surfing was my kind of swimming. I feel better while in the ocean than walking anyway.
How does it feel to surf with such a big weight in your belly, how do you manage to keep paddling on your board?
When you first get out, paddling feels a bit weird on the belly, but once you’re out for about 5 minutes that feeling disappears. I think the organs readjust or something and then it doesn’t bother you at all. I also push the board a bit deeper with my knee to submerge the board a bit and level it up with my belly so I can distribute the weight better.
How did you manage to readjust your balance over the months?
Keeping my balance while surfing was easy because I have been surfing all summer (almost every day) and I think I keep adapting to the constant increase of weight.
What’s the secret to being able to continue surfing the whole way until the term of your pregnancy?
The secret is: don’t listen to your parents or to the people that tell you not to go out!
...and that the people around you in the surf watch out for you a little.
If you are in good shape and health, there is no problem for you to keep doing what you were doing before being pregnant.
What’s your advice to any other women (like myself) who dream about being able to do the same?
If you love surfing, you can still do it during your pregnancy, of course you cannot start surfing whilst pregnant, but if you know what you’re doing you can do it. My advice is to continue doing what you were doing before you were pregnant. As long as you feel that you can do it, you can do everything.
The main issue today is that there is a lot of paranoia with pregnancy because women in general have babies a little older than in the past, which means increased risk. Back in the day, women would work in fields their whole pregnancy!
Do you think surfing that late in pregnancy is safe for the baby?
There is no doubt that even if you feel safe doing it, the risk comes from the surfers around you. But if you fall off your board in the water there is no risk and if you know how to surf you won’t hit yourself with the board either - we’re talking shortboard here -.
You just have to go when the waves aren’t too big.
- FYI I have seen Renata in the water in 3-5 foot waves a few times! -
Did many people hassle you about it being dangerous when seeing you in the water?
In the surf no one ever told me anything - they cheer for me if anything. But some people that don’t surf did tell me “you are crazy!”.
I have to say I didn’t really tell my gynecologist that I keep surfing, I told her in the beginning but I don’t think she believes it.
I’ll show her some photos next time I see her… Or maybe even after I give birth!
Do you think most women could surf so late in their pregnancy?
Most women are overly cautious about their pregnancy, even more so if they have already had a miscarriage (which is the case of every second woman) and they don’t want to do anything. It also depends on how old you are when pregnant. You may have to be more cautious after the age of 35. But if you stay active and if you feel good you can do anything.
How would you know if you can continue surfing when pregnant?
Try it!
Get out there and if you feel good you can keep doing it.
The type of waves you surf is also very important. I feel better surfing a point break - the one I see Renata out everyday - where I don’t have to duck dive too much and can just sit waiting for waves.
And when a bigger set does come I leave my board behind and dive underwater, that’s all!
Anything else you want to tell us about yourself?
Jaime, (Renata’s boyfriend): She was the second world champion of “Pala”, a type of Basque Pelota, in 2009 and won the Regional Championship of “Frontenis” (another type of Basque Pelota) this year, when she was 13 weeks pregnant!
Renata: I stopped playing Pala after a while because I felt it was more dangerous if I got hit by a ball or a racket than if I fell off in the water while surfing.
In the end if you love doing sport, you will do it during your pregnancy too.
Stay tuned for more images of Renata in our future video to be released by @wearbird so you can see her in motion.
We will make sure to be following this baby surfer’s steps as he grows up. I wouldn’t be surprised if he knew how to swim before knowing how to walk!
Photos by Romain Decomble
Surfer & wonderwomen Renata Elizade wearing the Socoa Surfsuit
Published on the 10/10/2018
Lady loggers of The Bay - Shot on Film
- Words and photos by Dave Thew, film photographer -
There are a fair few lady loggers in Byron Bay. Some grew up here, some settled from afar, and a few are holiday-makers. Sure they have their differences, but they have a lot in common. Firstly, there are all regulars in the lineup out at Wategos and The Pass. Secondly, they all have heaps of fun in the water; smiles all round. Another thing they have in common is their elegance. Don’t get me wrong; some guys are great to shoot, but heaps move around like an old wombat (myself included!). All I have to do to get a decent photo of these girls is point the camera at them and they do all the work. These shots are from one of the usual fun days in The Bay. Warm water, blue skies, and party waves a plenty!
Surfers
Roisin Carolan @roro.carolan wearing the Lafitenia Surfsuit
Laura Ashley @lovesundancekid wearing the Socoa Surfsuit
Stephanie Schechter @Stephanieschechter wearing the Artha One Piece
Laure Mayer @lauremyr wearing the Beltza One Piece
35mm film photos and words by Dave Thew
Mademoiselle of the Sea - Film photographer Anrielle Hunt
Byron Bay child Anrielle Hunt is that smiley face you meet in the surf and you will remember for her positive vibes. It’s clear that she’s at home & in love with the ocean and the elements as she will often tell you how much she regrets not having her camera with her when she’s surfing.
INTERVIEW BELOW
Pro surfer Roisin Carolan, photographer Fran Miller and I went on a trip to this incredible secret spot on the Australian east coast and Anrielle documented the day with some pretty classic frames.
Roisin Carolan in the Salinas One Piece
INTERVIEW
Meet Mademoiselle of the Sea and aqua film photographer Anrielle Hunt:
LORE: Is it safe to assume that growing up in Byron Bay makes you an ocean lover?
ANRIELLE: Most definitely. My clearest memory as a child is my dad taking me into the ocean on his hip at Belongil on what I felt was a ‘big’ day. He taught me to read the ocean and not be afraid. You can always dive deep, feel the sand and kick back to the surface.
Anrielle wearing the Lafitenia Surfsuit French Sailor
LORE: How long have you been surfing?
ANRIELLE: I started surfing around 12 years old, 5:30am wake ups getting my quilt ripped off me in winter. I was pretty insecure as a kid about how much of a kook I was so I mastered duck diving and became confident reading the surf in all kinds of conditions but couldn’t actually surf haha. I’ve always been in the ocean in some way but picked up longboarding about 4 years ago.
LORE: When you’re not in the ocean with your surfboard you choose flippers and camera, how did you get into photography, especially aqua photography?
ANRIELLE: I am creative in a lot of ways and have always had creative outlets and played with different mediums. I picked up film photography initially in year 10 at Byron High but due to some not-so-supportive peers ended up dropping it. I found myself watching documentaries on film photography recently and bought a camera and 20 rolls of film then and there. Majority of my friends spend a significant amount of time in the ocean so it just made sense!
Fran and Roisin enjoying the empty spot
LORE: Why choose film over digital?
ANRIELLE: To be honest given I felt I was starting all over again I thought it best to go back to basics and master analog first. At the time it was more cost effective too but not anymore, I’ve spent hundreds developing film haha, ah well…worth it.
LORE: What’s the hardest thing about shooting with film?
ANRIELLE: Surfing is fast, film is slow. While you’re trying to keep your body above water, be in the right spot and right distance from the subject at the right time making sure the settings match up with the aforementioned you’re also battling rogue boards and surfers in the shot! Shooting surf photography has made me practice patience and wait for the perfect moment. Makes it all worth it when everything lines up.
LORE: What inspires you the most and what are you still wanting to shoot?
ANRIELLE: Definitely seeing other people put themselves out there and do their thing without trepidation. Being in the ocean during sunrise or sunset and watching people dance on surf crafts using the ocean to do it is pretty inspiring!
I am also keen to get more into portraits and learning to be able to properly capture a person’s personality. I love seeing the essence of someone and who they are when they are comfortable in the ocean so I want to keep learning to translate that into my work.
Laure wearing the Lafitenia Surfsuit Metallic taupe
LORE: Any dreams for the future in surfing and photography?
ANRIELLE: I’m a nurse by trade and although I love it and it has served me well, my dream job is to travel and shoot surf and lifestyle photography. I plan to keep working with the amazing people I am lucky enough to have met around Byron and see where it takes me. Whatever will be, will be. I will be happy as long as I live a life in the ocean!
Date published 10/12/2017
How to keep surfing while pursuing your dream - Video
A short video by Keita Ikawa presenting the first Mademoiselle of the Sea and lady slider surfing in her Australian home Byron Bay.
"Testing prototypes in the water is my favorite part of the job"
Published on the 15/08/2016
Mademoiselle of the Sea - Isabelle Braly
Living the dream in the most famous Australian East Cost surf town, Isabelle Braly is the definition of what we call a styler and we’re blessed to have her as one of our Mademoiselles of the Sea.
Her surfing is the perfect combination of grace and style, combined with strong technique, and that rare sense of humbleness.
Wearing the biggest smile, Izzy is a ball of positive energy and it’s always inspiring to surf around her.
Here’s a little insight into Izzy’s busy life split between days at the beach, motherhood, and her professional life as a lawyer.
Ballerina style wearing the Lafitenia Surfsuit - Photo by @moceanmediahouse
INTERVIEW
LORE: Adopted Australian, you are originally from the US, where did you grow up and how did you get into surfing?
IZZY: I grew up on the beach in St Augustine, Florida. My dad owned the local surf shop. I had the luxury of being able to roll over in my bed an check the waves.
LORE: How long have you been surfing, and what types of boards do you ride?
IZZY: I started surfing on surfboards when I was about 7 years old. Prior to that I stood up and "surfed" on bodyboards. I mostly ride longboards but you can also catch me on the odd fat little shortboard as well. The last few years, I have been privileged with riding surfboards made by Thomas Bexon. Tom's boards have been magic for me.
LORE: How did you end up in Australia? What made you decide to call Byron Bay home?
IZZY: I first came to Australia to surf and to study. I surfed a lot and studied a little. But then I ended up getting a professional job, falling in love, having a baby and now it's been 13 years!
LORE: You’ve been competing for years, on the LQS, the WSL’s Longboard tour, and at the Noosa Festival; which event was the most memorable for you?
IZZY: I find this a difficult question to answer because I am not sure if I love any of the comps... anymore. Longboarding is easy for me to love but the professional women's longboarding tour is difficult for me to love. There are only a few competitions annually, the prize money is limited, the location of the competitions, like China, are often obscure and the waves generally are not dreamy.
Critical section in the Parede Surf Tee - Photos by @moceanmediahouse
LORE: What events are you planning to enter this year?
IZZY: This year I don't have any plans to enter any big events. I entered the Noosa Logger, which was a nice weekend escape; and I will most likely enter the Evans Head Invitational in October. These are more family events which are more fun than professional.
LORE: How do you manage to train, keep surfing everyday while being a mom and having such an important job as being a lawyer?
IZZY: I juggle and do not prioritise sleep as much as I probably should. The baby/work life balance is a lie.
LORE: What’s your best surfing memory?
IZZY: Surfing Witch's Rock in Costa Rica with my long-time school Kristin. We thought we were the female versions of Pat and Wingnut from Endless Summer II. haha
LORE: Which surfing destination are you dreaming of going, or returning to?
IZZY: Awww the Telo Islands or Fiji look pretty good.
LORE: Who inspires you most in surfing?
IZZY: Eric Walker. He is a local guy that absolutely loves to surf. He is in his sixties, hangs 10 everyday and reads waves with the utmost skill.
LORE: We love seeing you in Lore of the Sea; how do our pieces make you feel? what’s your favorite suit?
IZZY: I love the Lafitenia surfsuit. I've been wearing it to death. Its just so easy to wear. It's designed beautifully: good boob support, the long sleeves are great for sun protection and it stays on without having to readjust after every wave or whitewash.
Rocking the Lafitenia Surfsuit - Photo by Michael Spazz
Date published 05/05/2016
Test session in Paradise
Before releasing each new style we make sure it's surf-proof. Last February we went on a girls session with local shredder Roisin Carolan and outstanding aqua photographer Fran Miller to action test the potential of our new suits.
We're not sure what makes those pictures look so dreamy... is it the waves? the place? the colour of the water? the suits? or simply Fran's talented eye behind the lens?
A day in Byron Bay - Video
A sweet short video filmed at the Pass, featuring our first ever Lafitenia Surfsuit.
Sunset in Biarritz, Basque Country
Here in the Atlantic we sometimes experience big tides. Their immense power shapes the coastal landscape into a transformed ethereal vision.
When those rare days are lined up with a perfect sunset we had to immortalise the moment...
Local photographer Cecilia Thibier came along to snap these post card frames.
Mademoiselle of the Sea - Sierra Lerback
Sierra Lerback, 19 years old was lucky to be born in the beautiful island of Maui in Hawaii.
We caught her surfing in one of our fist surfsuit designs the LOIA SURFSUIT.
Read her story below.
INTERVIEW
LORE: Tell us a bit about you, how long have you been surfing for, how did you get hooked?
SIERRA: My fortunate upbringing on the island of Maui has given me the opportunity to have world class waves not even 10 minutes from my house, like Honolua bay. I have been surfing since i can remember- my dad put me on a board at the age of 3 & around the age of 7 I got my own board... And I was hooked! There are so many great waves on this little island, it's the perfect place for a surfer.
LORE: What do you love most about surfing?
SIERRA: Being on a wave is the most invigorating feeling- almost like flying. I can never quite pin point what I love so much about surfing, it could be the countless hours of being in the ocean and washing all of my worries away, or just the lifestyle that goes with it. Surfing has brought so much happiness & experience to my life and it's my favorite thing in this world!
LORE: How do you feel about being a female in the line up?
SIERRA: Being a female in the line up can be challenging at times, especially when you aren't at your local spots. I love it either way! Surfing with the boys always motivates me to go big.
LORE: What’s your are favorite spot?
SIERRA: My favorite place to surf on Maui is Honolua bay- it's a dream. There are 5 different peaks there that are all absolutely perfect barreling waves in crystal clear water.
My favorite wave to travel to would have to be in Noosa. Going to the Noosa Fest every year is the best excuse to score great waves and get to enjoy the atmosphere.
LORE: Where are you dreaming to go surfing?
SIERRA: I'm dreaming about going to West Java! By the looks of it, there's perfect waves for any board.
LORE: How is life on such a beautiful Island like Maui ?
SIERRA: Being born and raised on an island has truly been a blessing. Surrounded by beautiful waterfalls, incredible beaches, and breathtaking views it's difficult to get bored here. It's a small island with a big family vibe- there's so much aloha and love for one another. The ocean is apart of most people's every day life and it brings us all together, whether it be surfing or just beach BBQs, everyone gets together and has a good time.
LORE: Your favorite surf suit of Lore of The Sea?
SIERRA: My favorite surf suit is the Loia! It's the perfect suit to surf in & not to mention adorable.
LORE: Who is your biggest inspiration in surfing?
SIERRA: My biggest surfing inspiration is Leah Dawson. She rips at everything she does with one of the most unreal styles I have ever witnessed!
Date published 03/12/2015
Sunset Reflection
This surfsuit is one of my first prototypes, hand made by myself and highly tested before the brand even got a name.
I named that style the Getaria Surfsuit after one of my favorite places (the town next to my home town) in the Basque Country.